We'll have 3 free days in Athens in early October, after the finish of our tour, which includes the 4-day cruise.
Would welcome any suggestions of must-see sights (Acropolis is included in our tour), and any good cafes/tavernas/restaurants in the city centre which are not "tourist traps". Our TT hotel is Divani Palace Acropolis, so perhaps there are some in that location too?
Thanks everyone

Hi rontess

Here are some extracts from my diary during our visit to Greece and the Greek Islands which may give you some ideas.

On Day 2.

We arrived at the hotel around 6am and when we went to the desk to check in we were delighted to find that they had a room ready and waiting for us and we could go straight up. This was excellent after our long flight because we had thought we would probably have to leave our bags at reception until we could check in around 2pm. At 6.46 am the sun started to come up and we had our first glimpse of Athens from our hotel window which was across the street from the first cemetery in Athens.

We unpacked, had a shower and relaxed until about 10am.

Leaving the hotel we crossed the road and walked over to Hadrian’s Arch then around and into the archaeological site of the Temple of Zeus the Olympian (entry cost 500 Dr each). We walked all around the site and took quite a few photos. The Pillars are massive. You can get a very good photo of the Acropolis from here and also Lykavittos Hill which is the tallest hill in Athens. There were quite a few stray cats around and locals seem to leave food out for them as well as dishes of water.

Leaving the Temple of Zeus we walked through the National Gardens to the Zappeion - Palais des Expositions et des Congress, a very large building. We continued on through the gardens with mainly shady tree lined paths twisting all through like a maze. We explored a few of these paths as we made our way towards the Parliament Building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There were lots of stray cats in the gardens as well. We arrived in time for the 12 noon Changing of the Guards with their goose step marching. Quite a few people watching and as usual some people just walk in front of you as you are trying to take photographs or video.

We then walked down to Syntagma Square where we came across a McDonalds and decided to have a quick lunch.

After lunch we headed back to the hotel via Ermou St, Voulis, Nikodimou, Souri, Filellinon and Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias . We arrived back at our room at 1.30pm after stopping to buy a couple of bottles of water ready for tomorrow (400 Dr). As it was very hot outside, and we were starting to feel a bit weary after our long flight and walk, we decided to take it easy this afternoon and stop in our air conditioned room reading our maps etc.

At 6.05pm we headed downstairs and had a short walk before looking in the Hotel’s Souvenir shop and going into the Hotel Restaurant at 7.10 pm for dinner.

After dinner we went back to our room and straight to bed as it was now 9pm and we were both tired as it was 45 hours since we had last slept.

Day 3. - Saturday 4 September 1999

Weather: Fine and hot.

Up at 6.15am as we had been awake for awhile. We had both slept well until 3am but then only dozed after that.

Went down for breakfast at 7am and at 8am we left the hotel to walk to Lykavittos Hill. We walked via Ardittou past the Athens Stadium (which we didn’t visit as we will be going there with the tour group) and Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou. We continued along Irodou Attikou past the Presidential Residence where there were guards dressed like the ones in front of the Parliament Building.

We continued on up to Cassilios Sofias where we crossed over and turned right to walk past the Benaki Museum, Museum of Cycladic Art, Byzantine Museum and the War Museum before turning into Ploutarchou. The last part of this street was very steep flights of steps between the cross streets …… very steep. By the time we reached the top of the last series of steps we were just across the road from the Lykavittos Funicular Terminal where we had to wait about 15 minutes until it opened at 9.15am. Frankly, we were glad to sit down and have a rest and a drink of water while we waited. I certainly would not like to walk up here in the heat of the middle of the day. We could have continued to walk up but it winds a long way around the hill and there is no shade so we decided on the funicular at a cost of 1,000 Dr each (about AU$5).

Getting off at the top we were astounded by the terrific views of Athens and it was hard to decide just where to take our photos from. In addition to the views of the city you could see all the way down to Piraeus and some of the ships out to sea. The Greek Church, the white washed Agios Georgios, which crowns the top of the hill, was open and we were able to go inside. It was only small but decorated with lots of icons. As I mentioned before, Lykavittos Hill is the tallest hill in Athens (277m above the city) and we had a great view of the Acropolis from here as well.

We took the 10 am funicular back down and decided to explore some different areas on the way back so we walked down Ploutarchou for two flights of steps then turned right into Deinokratus, then turned left and then right to walk down alongside Filikis Etairieres Place into Neofytov Vamva which joined into Vasilissis Sofias where we again turned right. This area, called Kolanaki, had a lot of designer shops which all looked pretty exclusive to us. We retraced our steps back to the National Gardens and walked along side the Parliament Buildings and around to the front where the two guards were doing some marching at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. I was able to get better photos today as there were not as many people there.

We then walked into the National Gardens and sat in the shade for about 20 minutes to have a rest and drink of water. Left the park at 11.10am and ended up having lunch at McDonalds again as it was air-conditioned.

Leaving McDonalds at 12.05pm we called at the Post Office to buy some stamps then walked along Mitropoleos as far as the Athens Cathedral where we had a look inside (very nice). We also had a look in the small Byzantine church beside it, called the Panagia Gorgoepikoos, before walking back via Adrianou then Lysikratous returning to Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias near the Hadrian’s Arch where we then walked the short distance back to our hotel arriving back around 1.15pm. We had seen lots of cats during our walks so we purchased some T-Shirts for our granddaughters, with the Cats of Athens on them from, a little shop that prints the pictures on them while you wait.

At 6.15pm we walked up to a little family owned Greek restaurant called the Ivaki Athena restaurant which was just up the street to the left after leaving our hotel. We had Stewed Lamb and Steak that was absolutely delicious.

We returned to the hotel about 7.45pm and around 8.15 we headed out again to photograph the Temple of Zeus which was lit up at night and the Fountain that was in front of our Hotel.

Returning to our room at 9pm we did some washing and went to bed early around 10pm.

Day 4. - Sunday 5 September 1999 (Day 1 of our Tour)

Weather: Fine, sunny and hot.

This morning we were up at 6.15am, down for breakfast at 7.30am and leaving the hotel by 8 am to walk to the Plaka.

Today we walked via Athanesium Diakou, Makri, Frynichou to Lysikratous (Plaka Square) where we saw the monument of Lysikrates. From here we walked up Tripodon past the Agios Nikolaos Church into Lission.

We did in fact walk further than we had intended as we found we were at the start of the Roman Agora when we reached the end of the street. Turning left we walked up the hill to Thrassivoulou, above the church, and then walked back towards where we should have walked up. However this was a dead end so we had to retrace our steps a short distance, turn left and go up some more steps which went through the Old Anafiotika area. Some very old houses and cafes here and the steps actually passed through some of the cafes. Quite interesting.

At the top of the steps we turned right into Pratiniou then along and down to Tholou and then Panos where we turned right and walked down to the section of the Roman Agora with the Tower of the Winds. We took some photos as we walked most of the way around before walking the short distance down to take a photo of the Roman ruins where Hadrian’s Library was.

From here we walked back up to the Tower of the Winds grounds, turned right and walked down the road at the back of the Stoa of Attalos Museum but couldn’t find a gate where we could enter so we walked back up the hill the way we had come. We stopped a chap and asked where the entrance was and he said it was back down the hill we had just walked up and near the railway crossing.

Hmmmm, that didn’t seem right because we knew we had not found an entrance down there so we asked a young woman coming out of a private entrance to the area. She told us to keep going up the hill and enter near the church. This we did and found the entrance just past the Agic Apostolic Church. It cost 1200Dr each for entry which included entry to the Stoa of Attalos Museum as well as all the grounds of the Ancient Agora.

We had a good wander around the site and it is mainly all piles of rock where the buildings have been. The church in the grounds is still in good condition as is the Hephaisteion (Theseion) Temple. It was extremely hot walking around with virtually no shade or shelter.

We also saw the statue of Hadrian and had a look in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos Museum which houses finds from the Ancient Agora.

It was about 10.30am by the time we had seen enough in the heat and we exited by the bottom entrance which led out to Adrianou and which saved us quite a bit of walking.

We turned left on leaving and walked up to the corner and mistakenly turned left again. We thought we could go either way but we should have turned right not left because we had to do a large circle around the park and come back to Ermiou as we couldn’t get across the railway line. Anyway we turned left into Ermiou and walked the short distance down to the Kerameikos and the Oberlander Museum which is the location of the ancient burial grounds. We spent some time wandering through and looking at some of the headstones and also the museum with its collection of restored vases. Boy were we drinking a lot of water today because of the heat.

Leaving the Kerameikos we walked back down Ermou to Monastraki to visit the Flea Market which is held there every Sunday. We walked up a couple of streets but were glad to leave because it was packed with people and you could hardly move.

By the way, one of the things that has amused us on our walks is the way the Greeks park their vehicles. Parking in Athens is almost unbelievable. They seem to just park anywhere and anyhow, half on footpaths, fully on footpaths, double and triple parking on main roads, nose to nose angled in on corners, you name it and they do it. Traffic is so horribly congested in Athens and the cars are restricted to odds and evens number plate days in the city.

Leaving the Flea Market we walked back via Ermou, visited the 11th century Byzantine Church of Kapnikarea then continued up to Syntagma Square for lunch and post some postcards back home. We then walked straight back to the hotel where we arrived at our room about 1.40pm and had a lazy afternoon out of the heat.

Also

Day 10. – Saturday 11 September (Day 7 of our Tour)

Weather: Fine, sunny and hot.

Up at 6am this morning as we were going on a 3 Island day cruise to Hydra, Poros and Aegina.

We left the hotel at 8am with Maria (but in a different coach) and drove to the south of Athens to the harbour at Piraeus where the ferries leave from. It was very busy here and we boarded a very large ferry called Hermes. Our photo was taken as we boarded and we sat in the front lounge to start with.

The ferry departed at 8.30am and it took about an hour and a half to reach our first stop of the island of Aegina where we had approximately 2 hours for a visit.

We took the optional bus across the Island to see the Temple of Athena and the Greek Cathedral. At the Temple one of the Ferry hostesses gave us a short talk and then we had a half hour to walk around on our own and take photos. We were in buses according to language and our bus stopped at the Greek Orthodox Aghios Nectarios Cathedral for 15 minutes on the way back. This was the nicest church we had been in since arriving in Greece. It was fairly new and built of white marble. The bus then dropped everyone off at the beginning of the foreshore on the way back so that we could wander along the waterfront and have a look in the shops. We walked across to the water’s edge and took some photos of the ferry and also the donkeys and the markets. We were glad we didn’t go into any of the shops as it took as all of our time to walk back to the boat. I don’t know why they dropped us off so far from the ferry because we had to walk fast and couldn’t dawdle. We were back on board the ferry at 11.45am and it was due to leave at 10.50am but was delayed a few minutes as some of our people were a few minutes late in getting back.

On boarding we were sent straight into lunch as we were down for the first sitting. We had seafood cocktails, lamb with potatoes and then custard tart and wine (all included). We had a cup of tea afterwards and had to pay 500Dr each for it. A bit of a rip-off as they came around and gave the cup of tea to you and then told you later that you had to pay for it. We sat back up in the lounge after lunch.

Our next Island was Poras where arrived at approximately 1pm and left at 2.05pm. We had approximately one hour here and no tours so we spent the time at the shops and the Harbour. It’s a pretty town built on the side of a hill with a clock tower on the top. We had to go up steep flights of steps to get to the next row of shops because of the hill. Lots of little shops here but mainly all selling the same things.

After we left Poros we sat in the forward lounge where they had a Greek dancing show for the English speaking passengers while other passengers were having their lunch. Three of the staff dressed in traditional Greek costumes for the particular dances they were doing and changed costumes several times. There was also a band comprising organ, guitar and bazooka who played and sang while the others were changing. 3 of the group (including my wife) were taken up on stage to learn to do some of the steps. We had made the mistake of sitting at the front and I escaped because I was using the video. It made for some fun video watching our people dancing around on one leg with the heel of the other foot hooked behind the heel of their Greek partner, both hands up above their heads and trying to keep their balance. A lot of fun. After the show finished we went up on top deck to watch our Ferry enter the Harbour at Hydra. It was a very pretty sight as there are Forts with cannons on either side of the Harbour and the town is built on the side of the hill with all the fishing boats down in the Harbour.

We arrived at Hydra at 3.35pm, had 1 hour 25 minutes there and left at 5pm. We walked from the Ferry around to the other side of the Harbour to one of the Forts with the cannons. Just near here, if you wished, you could have a swim in the Saronic Gulf. They had mesh marking out the swimming area and some from our Ferry went in swimming. This was the nicest of the 3 islands. We took some photos, had a look in the small shops, then bought a drink & went back to the Ferry at 4.50pm and found a seat outside on the top deck so we would be able to get photos of the Harbour on the way out. Unfortunately we hadn’t been able to get a goodphotos on the way in as there is nowhere for passengers to stand at the front of the ferry. We stopped up on deck for about half hour after we sailed but it was getting too windy so we went down to the rear lounge (the front lounge was being used for the Greek Dancing show for non English speaking people). Our group mainly all sat together although a few did sit outside at the back.

After a relaxing trip back we arrived at the wharf at Pireous at 7.30pm where the bus was waiting to take us back to our Hotel. Maria had us line up on the Ferry at one entrance 10 minutes before we docked so that we were first off after the staff.

Also

Day 11. – Sunday 12 September (Day 8 of our Tour)

Weather: Fine and sunny.

I was awake at 6am but my wife slept until 8am.

After breakfast we re-packed our suitcases ready for tomorrow then walked down to watch the changing of the guard. We arrived there at 10.40am and there was already a crowd but we managed to get a front position on the right hand side. From here we had a terrific view of them marching in but were side on to them once they started changing the guard. It would have been much better on the left hand side for that. Except for the Flea Markets, this was the most people we had seen in one place since we arrived.

The changing of the guard finished at 11am and we walked over and bought a couple of post cards then wrote them while sitting in the Square so that we could post them at the Post Office. Then strolled back towards our hotel via the Plaka and stopped off at the Avaki Restaurant near our Hotel for lunch from around 12 or 1pm. I had fish and chips and my wife had macaroni pie plus a coke each (all very nice) before returning to our hotel for a rest in our room until it was time to leave at 3pm for our tour to Cape Sounion.

We left for Cape Sounion at 3pm and drove along the coast down to Cape Sounion and we were on the left hand side of the bus so were not looking out over the water. Of course we were on the best side for the views coming back to Athens so it balanced out. A very nice drive.

At Cape Sounion we had one hour to walk around and take photos of Poseidon Temple and have a drink. It was extremely windy here and everyone had trouble keeping their hats and caps on in the blustery conditions. By the way, the prices of souvenirs are extremely high at Cape Sounion compared to Athens. We reboarded our coach at 5.15pm and drove back the same way we had come arriving at our hotel at 6.45pm.

After a quick shower we met in the foyer at 7.30pm and 10 of us went down to the little Avaki Athena Restaurant where we had eaten on several occasions. I had Roast Lamb and my wife had rice with spaghetti and Bolognaise sauce followed by icecream. A delicious meal.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: dragons,

Oh and here is one more:

Day 17. – Saturday 18 September (after our Insight tours)

Weather: Fine, sunny and hot.

This morning we slept in until 8.15am. Showered and went to breakfast at 8.45am with 3 from our tour group. Several others from our group came in and came over to say goodbye to us as they are leaving today. Sadness all round.

We left the hotel at 9.15am and walked down to Syntagma Square where we stopped briefly to cash a TC at the Amex Office (exchange rate was very good and no commission charged).

From here we walked down Panepistimiou (El Venizelou) past the Roman Catholic Cathedral, Schliemann’s Mansion, The Academy of Art, University of Athens and National Library to Omonia Square where we turned right into Oktovriou Patission and walked along to the National Archeological Museum where we arrived about 10.15am

We walked through all of the sections except the 1st floor which was closed because of earthquake damage (the Museum only reopened last Wednesday). There were quite a lot of people at the museum and the gold from the Mycenae period was interesting.

We left the museum at around 12.45 and walked back to Syntagma Square via Oktovriou Patission to Omonia Square then Eolou, Euripidou, Parmasouon, Hr. Lada to the Staduium and passed the National Historical Museum on the way.

Arriving at Syntagma Square around 1.15pm we had lunch at McDonalds before walking back through the Plaka where we purchased a couple of Calendars and T-shirts before walking back to our hotel about 3pm. For the rest of the afternoon we wrote up our diaries and lazed about.

We had arranged to meet up with one of our tour group at 7pm (there were now only the 3 of us left in Athens) and the three of us walked to a restaurant near the Tower of the Winds called The Five Brothers where we sat outside with views of the Tower etc and had a very nice meal. First we had fried cheese in batter then my wife had Macaroni Pie while I had Moussaka for an entrée and Veal in Tomato Sauce for a main course. They were huge helpings and we couldn’t eat it all.

There were about 6 cats wandering around the tables and where we were sitting there was a raised garden bed beside us. One of the cats put its paws up on my chair and my wife gave them some of her Macaroni Mince which she couldn’t eat. Our companion also gave them some of her left-overs as well. There were also 3 kittens in the group (2 grey striped and 1 black). They all looked very healthy and probably get well fed living near the restaurant and being allowed to wander where they liked.

After dinner we walked back through the Plaka to our hotel, said goodbye to our travel companion because she was leaving early the next morning, and returned to our room around 10.30pm.

Day 18. – Sunday 19 September (after our Insight tours)

Weather: Hot, cloudy, showers and sometimes sunny.

Up at 8am this morning and breakfast at 8.45am.

After breakfast we walked down via Temple of Zeus and the Zappeio, through the Botanical Gardens and around the small Zoo (mainly ducks, goats and birds). The Zoo is just a small section within the gardens and there is no separate entry. We continued on until we reached the gate on Vassilou Sofia, turned left and walked down to the Parliament Building to watch the changing of the Guard again. The heavens started to sprinkle just as we arrived there and while we didn’t have an umbrella with us it wasn’t really heavy so we ignored it. This time the band entered from the side as they were digging up the road in front. There was quite a crowd there and we couldn’t stand facing the band as we hoped to do as they kept that part clear for the band to leave via the side entrance.

Afterwards we walked around the Plaka again for a while and did some more shopping. It rained again and this time heavier and we were getting a bit wet so we decided to have lunch in a Taverna in the Square near the Cathedral while it was raining. It was called the Iokli Retaurant and I had Moussaka while my wife had Stripped tomato and pepper. Quite nice.

By the time we had finished it had stopped raining but was still quite dull so we walked back to the hotel via the Plaka. This was the first day it had really rained since we arrived in Athens. We had a couple of spots one other day but that was all. We had a rest until 5.30pm and by this time it was fine and sunny again so we walked up to the Acropolis grounds near the Plaka along Dionysio Arepagitou for a short distance then back up Thrasyllou and Stratonos, along through Anafiotika into Prylareon and along past Agios Nicholas. Then into Tripodon before turning left into Thespidos and past the restaurant where we had dinner the other night. We then continued along Kydathinaion past the Greek Folk Museum and lots of open air restaurants before turning right into Nikis and walking back past St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral. From here we walked back along the same way we normally walked to Syntagma Square from the hotel. We crossed the road near Hadrian’s Arch to see if you could see the Parthenon fully from there but we could only see the side so we continued walking up to Ardittiou St., across from our hotel, and up the hill towards the Stadium. We still couldn’t get a good view from the traffic lights so we walked up to the gates of the Athens Cemetery. We could see some of the elaborate headstones from the gate but we didn’t bother going in.

We then walked back down to the Athena Restaurant near our hotel for dinner where I had vegetable soup, stewed lamb and then icecream while my wife had rice with mince and tomato sauce and then icecream (cost Dr10,000 with drinks). It rained again while we were having dinner and at 8.45pm we went back up Ardittou Street to take some photos but it was too early as all of the lights were not properly on yet so we went back to the hotel.

At 9.30pm we walked again to take some photos. It was not raining but the Parthenon still was not lit up. We waited until 10pm and then gave up and went back to our hotel.

________________

I hope you can get something useful out of all that rontess.

dragons . . . My daughter and I are going to be in Athens in one month and I have enjoyed reading of your wanderings in the city. We will have three days on our own to explore there.

Hi RaroGirl,

Now you are making me envious to go back again. We had 3 days in Athens before a tour of Greece, one day after the tour and before a Greek Islands cruise and then 2 days after the cruise. We certainly were not bored at any stage during the 5 days and always found things to see and do.

Are you doing the cruise to the Islands etc as well? Santorini is simply spectacular as you cruise into what once was a volcanic crater and you look up at the towering cliffs with all of the whitewashed houses along the top.

By the way, I did ramble on a bit in the above posts didn't I. I didn't have much time last night so instead of posting a proper reply I just copied the extracts straight from my diary to the posts.

Dragons, your post was just great - exactly the information I was looking for - thank you so much. I have already got a map of Athens, so can see where you went! You certainly covered a good area on foot by the sound of it. Whether it will be quite so hot for us in early October, we don't know, but we'll be prepared! I hadn't read any reports previously on the 3-island day trip, so your comments were really helpful. I'm looking forward also to the markets - but not the crowds! I understand from having U.K. visitors over last Christmas that we here in Australia "don't know what crowds are!" I haven't been to Europe for twenty six years - wonder how I'll take them!
Many thanks again.

CMR - thank you too for your helpful info. We'll certainly try and see the changing of the guard and have also noted down the war museum and of course the view from L.Hill.
Thanks again.

dragons . . . yes, after our three days in Athens we are joining a tour (lasts six or seven days), followed by a four night cruise. We do go to Santorini and also Crete. Should be great fun!

Dragons - Thanks for the info. We will be in Athens in October. Unfortunately we only have one extra day.

Thats a pity joe because there is plenty to see if you are prepared to go out and look for it.

Dragons

I have been going over our itinerary in detail. It looks like our cruise gets back to Athens very early in the morning. That gives me a whole extra day in Athens. Again, thanks for the info.

My pleasure Joe. Have a great trip.